A piece of Pai: Cambodia part 1

I want to describe my trip to Cambodia but so much happened during it and I learned/ saw /smelled so much it'd be tough to try to explain it all. So I'll start with my time in Phomn Phen, the capital. I flew in and out of Phomn Phen but I wish I had just stayed in Siem Reap (the touristy city where all the temples are) Phom Phen is as the Brits say "a bit dodgy". I went by myself for this trip and at some points I felt a little vulnerable. The poverty there is at times overwhelming and at other times heartbreaking. There were no traffic lights, garbage littering the streets, beggars everywhere and it seemed like everyone was hustling. Or thinking of a way to rip off tourists. It's understandable ( the begging and hustling) seeing as how only 30 years ago the country was thrown into turmoil and Pol Pot eliminated all currency, destroyed art, schools, colleges, and killed anyone he suspected of being an intellectual. Pol Pot apparently had this distorted view that in order for Cambodia to once again be a dominant power, it needed to return to agrarian roots. When he took power, he forced everyone out of the city and into the countryside to harvest rice. Any intellectuals were killed, the currency was destroyed and his reign lasted for three years...killing about a 3rd of the entire population. He basically had one of the most oppressive regimes, even though it only lasted 3 years. He turned a former primary school into a prison. And they have since turned it into a genocide museum....and that was the toughest part about visiting. To realize how many people were hurt, or killed for no reason at this place really is hard to deal with. I can't believe anyone can visit that place and not want to try their best to ensure that something like that never happens again....I know I was deeply affected seeing those images.

The result of this, is an economy in shambles and an immense disparity of wealth. Their 4,000 Cambodian dollars equals 1 US dollar. There will be beggars, amputees and homeless people in a park, but across the street will be a 5 star French Hotel, a legacy of French colonialism....this disparity of wealth is something I've never seen so starkly before. In NYC there may be some but we can't comprehend how most of the people live in Cambodia, even the poorest in NY still have running water, and functional toilets, garbage etc. There are a few buildings being built, which seems promising, until you read the signs that mention a "Korean or Japanese Friendship" Basically because the government is so incapable of providing the basic necessities, a lot of the buildings or construction projects are handled by private companies. Even the Temples of Angkor Wat, the main reason most tourists (and most dollars come to the country) are not owned wholly by the government. A Japanese company owns the access roads to the Temples. At the checkpoints you have to pay a 20 dollar fee for a day pass there. I thought some of that 20 bucks would go to the people , but it seems like barely any makes it back to help those who need it most.
Everyone you talk to there has been affected in some way by the rule of Pol Pot and its heartbreaking to see amputees (the victims of land mines) begging in the streets or kids halking DVDs or postcards saying "give me money so I can go to school". Which is fine until you follow them and see them returning to the same adult each time and handing over their money to the adult...then you realize they maybe won't get any of it.

I know I'm painting a pretty grim picture of Phomn Phen, but Siem Reap was much more beautiful and despite all of the negative aspects, I found most of the people really friendly and didn't feel too bad that they were trying to rip me off. And I did get to see an elephant just walking down the street while I was having lunch one day, so it wasn't all bad. Also I met someone who was teaching at an orphanage in Phomn Phen and really making a difference in the lives of the children there. It seems like that's the best way to make a positive impact, at the low levels and in the field, not through government agencies.
Anyway...I'll post more about Siem Reap and the temples but here are some pics of Phomn Phen....

monkey in the park....

Glad their working on getting this problem under control...

some moto drivers taking a nap...

amazing gardens

Kid swimming in the river. A few minutes before I saw this kid, I saw a man bring his household garbage and literally hammer throw it straight into the river, needless to say I don't think it's a safe or clean enough river to swim in...

It never ceases to amaze me how many people can fit on scooters or motor bikes, I saw a group of 5 guys on one and a friend of mine said she saw a husband wife, and a COW riding on one...here two monks are just out for a drive...

S-21 what used to be a primary school, but Pol Pot turned it into a detention/ torture chamber....they put up barbed wire so the detainees could not try and commit suicide...really heartbreaking place.