Cambodia part 1

I want to describe my trip to Cambodia but so much happened during it and I learned/ saw /smelled so much it'd be tough to try to explain it all. So I'll start with my time in Phomn Phen, the capital. I flew in and out of Phomn Phen but I wish I had just stayed in Siem Reap (the touristy city where all the temples are) Phom Phen is as the Brits say "a bit dodgy". I went by myself for this trip and at some points I felt a little vulnerable. The poverty there is at times overwhelming and at other times heartbreaking. There were no traffic lights, garbage littering the streets, beggars everywhere and it seemed like everyone was hustling. Or thinking of a way to rip off tourists. It's understandable ( the begging and hustling) seeing as how only 30 years ago the country was thrown into turmoil and Pol Pot eliminated all currency, destroyed art, schools, colleges, and killed anyone he suspected of being an intellectual. Pol Pot apparently had this distorted view that in order for Cambodia to once again be a dominant power, it needed to return to agrarian roots. When he took power, he forced everyone out of the city and into the countryside to harvest rice. Any intellectuals were killed, the currency was destroyed and his reign lasted for three years...killing about a 3rd of the entire population. He basically had one of the most oppressive regimes, even though it only lasted 3 years. He turned a former primary school into a prison. And they have since turned it into a genocide museum....and that was the toughest part about visiting. To realize how many people were hurt, or killed for no reason at this place really is hard to deal with. I can't believe anyone can visit that place and not want to try their best to ensure that something like that never happens again....I know I was deeply affected seeing those images.

The result of this, is an economy in shambles and an immense disparity of wealth. Their 4,000 Cambodian dollars equals 1 US dollar. There will be beggars, amputees and homeless people in a park, but across the street will be a 5 star French Hotel, a legacy of French colonialism....this disparity of wealth is something I've never seen so starkly before. In NYC there may be some but we can't comprehend how most of the people live in Cambodia, even the poorest in NY still have running water, and functional toilets, garbage etc. There are a few buildings being built, which seems promising, until you read the signs that mention a "Korean or Japanese Friendship" Basically because the government is so incapable of providing the basic necessities, a lot of the buildings or construction projects are handled by private companies. Even the Temples of Angkor Wat, the main reason most tourists (and most dollars come to the country) are not owned wholly by the government. A Japanese company owns the access roads to the Temples. At the checkpoints you have to pay a 20 dollar fee for a day pass there. I thought some of that 20 bucks would go to the people , but it seems like barely any makes it back to help those who need it most.
Everyone you talk to there has been affected in some way by the rule of Pol Pot and its heartbreaking to see amputees (the victims of land mines) begging in the streets or kids halking DVDs or postcards saying "give me money so I can go to school". Which is fine until you follow them and see them returning to the same adult each time and handing over their money to the adult...then you realize they maybe won't get any of it.

I know I'm painting a pretty grim picture of Phomn Phen, but Siem Reap was much more beautiful and despite all of the negative aspects, I found most of the people really friendly and didn't feel too bad that they were trying to rip me off. And I did get to see an elephant just walking down the street while I was having lunch one day, so it wasn't all bad. Also I met someone who was teaching at an orphanage in Phomn Phen and really making a difference in the lives of the children there. It seems like that's the best way to make a positive impact, at the low levels and in the field, not through government agencies.
Anyway...I'll post more about Siem Reap and the temples but here are some pics of Phomn Phen....
monkey in the park....
Glad their working on getting this problem under control...

some moto drivers taking a nap...

amazing gardens

Kid swimming in the river. A few minutes before I saw this kid, I saw a man bring his household garbage and literally hammer throw it straight into the river, needless to say I don't think it's a safe or clean enough river to swim in...
It never ceases to amaze me how many people can fit on scooters or motor bikes, I saw a group of 5 guys on one and a friend of mine said she saw a husband wife, and a COW riding on one...here two monks are just out for a drive...
S-21 what used to be a primary school, but Pol Pot turned it into a detention/ torture chamber....they put up barbed wire so the detainees could not try and commit suicide...really heartbreaking place.


These regulations give some idea of the brutality of Pol Pot







Will post more about Angkor Wat , and Siem Reap and the country side later....
-B

Well I'm headed back to Taipei tomorrow after spending a week in Cambodia. I came here by myself not quite knowing what to expect, but this place is a real eye opener. Traveling around a country where the average person makes 25 US dollars a month, (most of the time less than that), and has been so wrought with war really puts life in perspective. I think it's impossible to travel to a place like this and not be affected, not be moved and feel a need to improve some of these conditions.
It's deplorable how those with so much can sit by and watch those with so little live in such harsh conditions. This trip has reaffirmed what career path I need to take and solidified my reasons for wanting to work in the human rights/ development field. It's just a matter of figuring out how to go about it....the most effective way seems to be working at the community level, as donations to the governent seems to get siphered away...
A little goes along way to helping so many people here...it's hard not to realize how privileged we all are when you see how most of the world really lives. I'm very thankful and appreciative for sure.
It's been an eyeopening....yet still fun trip with some beautiful scenery and tasty dollar beers. I'll write more when I get back to Taipei....but a great experience for sure!
-b

Off to Cambodia!!!

Well my excursion into South East Asia is finally here...I'm nervous, excited and well mostly excited. I'm leaving on January 24th and getting back to Taipei on January 31st....I've been so busy lately this will be a good break for me.

I don't really know what to expect in Cambodia, but from talking to other people it will be an amazing and eye-opening experience. I'm flying in and out of the capital Phomn Phen and gonna try and spend most of my time in Siem Reap and Ankor Watt exploring the amazing temples in that area. I hear if I'm very cheap I can survive on 10 US dollars a day, but maybe I'll yearn for the finer comforts liek hot water....so that might raise my cost to 20 US dollars a day, which for 7 days, really won't be that bad. I think the cab to and from the airport will be more than my hotels in Cambodia for the week. I heard internet is spotty there (among other things) So I'll be sure to update if I can find a connection....

It will be interesting to see a part of the world that maybe most people do not get to see and will be a harrowing, eye-opening experience for sure. I just hope I don't get sick ...
SO EXCITED FOR CAMBODIA!!!

Happy Chinese New Year !!!!! (It's the year of the Ox here, not sure what that means but has a nicer ring to it than 2009)


See you when I get back.....
-Brian

Thankful for my Family!!!

Sorry for the lack of updates...its been an amazing few weeks...first my Dad visited for Christmas, then there was New Year's then my sister and brother came for a week. We went to Kenting on the southern tip of Taiwan, rented scooters, went go karting, went swimming in the ocean, for free beer from locals, you know standard stuff really. It was an incredible trip! I'm so thankful to have an amazing, supportive and loving family. Their visit around a time when I was feeling pretty homesick gave me the shot in the arm that I needed and reminded me how special they all are. My Dad, much to the surprise of my immediate family adapted well to Taiwan. We were able to head down to Taroko Gorge, managed to get lost on the train and ended up in some little town. But also got treated like celebrities. It meant a lot to be able to show my family all the things I've done here and to welcome them into my life here.
I could not make the move out here, could not take the biggest yet most rewarding risk of my life, could not have been half the person I am today were it not for my incredible, loud, outgoing, fun and really loving family. Sorry if this rant is a little too mushy but it's been a while.......it can't all be booze and marathons. I do have some emotions....

I'll write more details about the trips but I've been so busy with Chinese classes and teaching I haven't had time to do anything as of late....but I do want to say THANK YOU to Dad Caitlin and Kevin for coming out. I hope you guys all realize how much it meant to me.
Driving around the southern tip of Taiwan on rented scooters with Kev and Caitlin is by far my best memory so far of Taiwan. Christmas Eve dinner in Taiwan with my father is a very very very close second. All the shit I've seen and done here I owe to my family's support and love....but family is the most important thing....let's not forget that...

ANyway will update more ASAP...but check out picasaweb for a little taste of my life this last month I added three new albums....enjoy, I sure as hell enjoyed taking the pictures!!!!
http://picasaweb.google.com/brian.viani

-b